Question 1

How can I tell if a diamond is natural or laboratory-grown?

Accepted Answer

Standard gemological equipment cannot distinguish between natural and lab-grown diamonds. A GIA or IGI grading report is essential. Lab-grown diamonds are laser-inscribed on the girdle with their report number and the designation 'laboratory grown.' Advanced spectroscopic equipment (DiamondView, photoluminescence) can detect differences in growth patterns. As of 2026, lab-grown diamond prices have dropped roughly 75 percent since 2020, with a 1-carat round brilliant now retailing for 500 to 1,500 dollars compared to 5,000 to 12,000 dollars for a natural equivalent. This price gap continues to widen.

Question 2

What makes Art Deco jewelry more valuable than other vintage periods?

Accepted Answer

Art Deco jewelry (roughly 1920 to 1935) commands premiums because of its use of platinum, high-quality natural gemstones, and precise geometric hand-craftsmanship that is extremely expensive to replicate today. The period coincided with access to fine Burmese rubies, Kashmir sapphires, and Colombian emeralds that are now largely exhausted. A signed Cartier or Van Cleef bracelet from this period can sell for 200,000 to over 2 million dollars. Even unsigned Art Deco pieces with good stone quality regularly achieve 10,000 to 50,000 dollars at auction, far exceeding comparable Victorian or Edwardian pieces.

Question 3

Are Georgian mourning brooches still collectible?

Accepted Answer

Georgian mourning jewelry (1714 to 1837) has a dedicated collector base that values the combination of craftsmanship, personal sentiment, and historical documentation. Pieces featuring hairwork, miniature portrait painting, or seed pearl inscriptions regularly sell for 500 to 5,000 dollars. Exceptional examples with identified subjects or royal connections can reach 20,000 dollars or more. The market has been steady rather than speculative, which appeals to collectors interested in social history. Hairwork pieces with intact, well-preserved hair in elaborate designs are particularly sought after. Jet mourning jewelry from the Whitby region commands separate collector interest.

Question 4

How do I read hallmarks on antique silver and gold jewelry?

Accepted Answer

British hallmarks follow a consistent system since 1300: an assay office mark (anchor for Birmingham, leopard's head for London, rose for Sheffield), a fineness mark (lion passant for sterling silver, crown for 18-carat gold), a date letter that changes annually, and a maker's mark. French marks use an eagle's head for 18-carat gold and a boar's head for imported gold. Continental European marks vary by country but generally include a purity number (750 for 18ct gold, 585 for 14ct). Online references like the Assay Office database and Bradbury's Book of Hallmarks are essential tools for dating.

Question 5

What vintage costume jewelry brands are worth collecting?

Accepted Answer

The most collectible costume jewelry brands are Miriam Haskell (hand-wired baroque pearl pieces from the 1940s to 60s, 200 to 3,000 dollars), Trifari (especially Crown Trifari Alfred Philippe designs with vermeil and Lucite, 50 to 1,500 dollars), Schiaparelli (bold surrealist designs, 100 to 2,000 dollars), and Eisenberg Original (rhinestone brooches, 75 to 800 dollars). Kenneth Jay Lane pieces worn by notable figures like Jackie Kennedy have broken 5,000 dollars. Marcel Boucher, Hattie Carnegie, and Weiss are undervalued relative to quality. Condition of plating and stone retention is critical. Signed pieces command two to five times unsigned equivalents.

Question 6

How much has the colored gemstone market changed since 2020?

Accepted Answer

Colored gemstones have outperformed many alternative investments since 2020. Unheated Burmese rubies above 3 carats have appreciated roughly 40 percent, with per-carat prices for fine 5-carat stones exceeding 1 million dollars. Paraíba tourmalines from Brazil have seen 60 percent price increases, driven by extreme scarcity. Colombian emeralds with minor oil treatment and vivid saturation are up approximately 30 percent. The shift toward colored stones over diamonds, particularly among younger collectors, has accelerated. Lab-grown colored stones have not disrupted the natural market to the same degree as lab diamonds.

Jewelry identification and value guide (vintage, estate and fine)

Browse Curiosities

Articulated Ethnographic Silver Panel Bracelet

Modern Greek Carnelian Intaglio Swivel Ring

Contemporary Link Chain Necklace

Contemporary Gold-Tone Band with Illusion Set Round Stone

Contemporary Beaded Stretch Bracelet

Intricately Filigreed Silver-Tone Brooch or Pendant

Victorian Engraved Silver or Silver-Plated Bracelet

Victorian / Edwardian Era Floral Lapel Pin with Chain and Pendant

Engraved Bangle Bracelet

Mid-20th Century Gold Ring with Coral Cabochons

Vintage Gold Wedding Band with Dedication Engraving

Gentleman's Gold-Tone Signet Ring with Dark Inlay

Gemstones, metals and wearable history

What this category includes

Frequently asked questions about jewelry