Roamer Rolled Gold Ladies Cocktail Watch c.1960s

Estimated value
$45 - $110Rarity
Average(4/10)Category
WatchesBrand
RoamerEra
c. 1960-1965Origin
🇨🇠SwitzerlandAuthenticity
ROAMER ROLLED GOLD LADIES COCKTAIL WATCH C.1960S: IDENTIFICATION
Mid-century ladies' dress watch featuring a small 15mm-18mm round case with a fluted bezel. The dial is silvered with applied golden baton indices and an Arabic numeral at the 12 o'clock position. It is mounted on an integrated wheat-link style braided bracelet with an adjustable ladder clasp. The caseback displays the RW (Roamer Watch) logo inside a wreath, indicating the use of an in-house MST (Meyer & Studeli) caliber, common for this period.
Compare with other watches in the archive: Angus & Coote 'Faithful Lever' Pocket Watch (Elgin Movement) c.1915, Baume & Mercier Geneve Ladies Wristwatch c.1970s, Baume & Mercier Geneva Vintage Square Dress Watch c.1970.
CROSS-CULTURAL PARALLELS
Where This Object Echoes
The trend for 'hidden' jewelry-first watches used at formal evening events.
Ritual & Ceremonial Use
- •Commonly gifted as a graduation or 'coming of age' milestone for young women in the mid-20th century.
Meaning Through Time
A necessary functional accessory for a formal wardrobe.
Primarily valued as a vintage styling piece or heirloom rather than a precision timekeeper.
SCARCITY
Typical antique shop fare. Requires some searching but regularly available. This is where most genuine antiques fall.
Rarity 4/10. Curiosa currently catalogues 11 watches items at rarity 4 or higher.
Typical Characteristics
- Standard antique shop items
- Regularly available
- Moderate collector interest
Confidence Factors
- Correct RW logo and MST style caseback stampings
- Age-appropriate patina on the dial and rolled gold shell
- Period-accurate crown profile and bracelet construction
WATCHMAKER'S ASSESSMENT
Vintage Watchmaker & Horology Specialist
Identification is high due to the clear 'RW' caseback markings which are definitive for Roamer, despite the conflicting user note.
KEY EVIDENCE
- 1Caseback bears the RW shield logo of Roamer Watch Co.
- 220 Micron rolled gold bezel indicates a mid-tier Swiss production standard.
- 3Integrated braided bracelet is typical of 1960s cocktail designs.
- 4Stainless steel back used to prevent skin corrosion, common in gold-filled pieces.
- 5 MST movement signature was standard for Roamer before they transitioned to ETA/Sellita movements.
UNCERTAINTIES
- •The watch is almost certainly not a Baume & Mercier as specified in the user's paper note.
WHAT WOULD IMPROVE CERTAINTY
- →Open the snap-back case to verify the MST caliber number and check for movement corrosion.
- →Test for mechanical functionality; if the balance wheel is sluggish, a full service is required.
- →Confirm the hallmark on the clasp to see if the bracelet is original to the case.
CONDITION & GRADE
Grading breakdown
Wear is primarily localized to the friction points of the bracelet links. The dial shows minor foxing, though the hands and indices remain legible without significant corrosion.
Condition
Significant brassing and wear-through of the gold plating on the bracelet links and clasp. The crystal shows light surface scratches, and the caseback has a notable diagonal scratch across the 'RW' logo.
WATCH MARKET VALUE
Updated: May 10, 2026
Who buys this
Vintage accessory enthusiasts and entry-level Swiss watch collectors looking for mid-century styling.
What increases value
- •Functional mechanical movement
- •Clarity of the fluted bezel
- •Integrity of the braided bracelet links
What lowers value
- •Significant plating wear on the high-contact areas of the bracelet
- •Lack of original box and papers
- •Small dial size (approx 15mm) limits modern wearable appeal
What makes top-tier examples
- •Solid 14k or 18k gold case rather than rolled gold bezel
- •Unworn 'New Old Stock' (NOS) condition with original hangtags
Grade & condition
Condition of the plating is the primary value driver for gold-filled ladies' watches.
Rarity & demand
For informational purposes only, not a formal appraisal.
SIMILAR CURIOSITIES
Victorian Heart-Shaped Pendent Watch c.1890
Universa 2000 Sterling Silver Fashion Watch c.1970s
Tavernier 18K Gold Manual Wind Ladies Watch c.1960s
Baume & Mercier Geneva Vintage Square Dress Watch c.1970
Swiss Triple Calendar Skeletonized Pocket Watch
Vintage Breitling Ladies Cocktail Watch in 18K Yellow Gold Ref. 5605
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