Tissot Seastar Automatic Ref. 44520 (Gold-Plated, Silver Dial) c.1965
Estimated value
$175 - $350Rarity
Ordinary(3/10)Category
WatchesBrand
TissotEra
1960-1970Origin
SwitzerlandAuthenticity
TISSOT SEASTAR AUTOMATIC REF. 44520 (GOLD-PLATED, SILVER DIAL) C.1965: IDENTIFICATION
This mid-1960s dress watch features a gold-plated case with a sunburst silver dial and applied stick indices. The dial is signed with the applied 'T' logo above the Tissot name and 'Swiss'. It utilizes a center seconds hand and a non-magnified date window at 3 o'clock. The dial bears the 'T SWISS MADE T' designation at the 6 o'clock position, indicating the presence of tritium lume on the hands and index pips. The watch is currently fitted with a non-original black braided Perlon strap with a steel buckle.
CROSS-CULTURAL PARALLELS
Where This Object Echoes
The clean, functional aesthetics of the stick indices and silver sunburst dial reflect the minimalist design trends of the 1960s.
Ritual & Ceremonial Use
- •Traditional 'coming of age' or graduation gift-giving in mid-20th century Europe and North America.
Meaning Through Time
A reliable, high-end daily driver tool for the professional man.
An entry-level vintage collectible valued for its mechanical heritage and 'shared' Omega DNA.
COLLECTOR NOTES
Tissot and Omega merged in 1930 to form SSIH, leading to several decades where both brands shared movement architecture and manufacturing resources.
The 'T' flanking 'Swiss Made' on the dial confirms the use of Tritium, which replaced the more radioactive Radium as a luminous material around 1963.
SCARCITY
Standard antiques commonly found at estate sales and flea markets. Plentiful supply meets modest demand.
Typical Characteristics
- Moderate production runs
- Common at estate sales
- Entry-level collectibles
Confidence Factors
- Correct dial printing and logo application for the era
- Consistent aging and plating wear expected for a 1960s gold-plated Tissot
- Generic screw-down caseback matches catalog specifications for Seastar models
WATCHMAKER'S ASSESSMENT
Vintage Watchmaker & Horology Specialist
Identification is high based on clear dial markings and case style, though the exact movement condition remains unverified without a caseback opening.
KEY EVIDENCE
- 1Applied 'T' logo and font styles are correct for mid-60s production.
- 2Tritium markers (T SWISS MADE T) align with post-1963 safety standards.
- 3Case geometry suggests a 34-35mm diameter common for the Ref. 44520.
- 4Braided Perlon strap is a typical 18mm aftermarket replacement from the 1970s or later.
UNCERTAINTIES
- •Dial spotting suggests past moisture ingress; internal movement oxidation is likely.
- •Non-original crown may indicate previous part replacement or service.
WHAT WOULD IMPROVE CERTAINTY
- →Open the caseback to verify the caliber (likely 784-2) and check for rust on the rotor.
- →Examine movement serial number to pinpoint the exact 1960s production year.
- →Perform a timegrapher test to check the amplitude and beat error.
CONDITION & GRADE
Grading breakdown
Visible moisture spots on the silver dial surface and significant loss of gold plating on the lugs reduce the grade; the hour hand shows darkening of the original tritium lume.
Condition
The dial shows significant spotting and oxidation, particularly between 12 and 1 o'clock and near the 6 o'clock marker. Case plating is worn through on high-friction areas, and the caseback shows tool marks from previous opening attempts.
WATCH MARKET VALUE
Updated: May 10, 2026
Similar condition Tissot Seastar models consistently sell between $200 and $300 on eBay (2024-2025).
Who buys this
Entry-level vintage watch collectors and fans of neo-vintage 'shared-DNA' watches.
What increases value
- •Operational status of the automatic movement
- •Rarity of the Seastar line compared to standard Tissot dress watches of the era
What lowers value
- •High cost of dial restoration relative to the watch's total value
- •Significant gold plating loss significantly reduces top-end collector interest
What makes top-tier examples
- •Original signed crown and untouched dial
- •Documentation of a recent service by a watchmaker
Grade & condition
Dial cleanliness, integrity of the gold plating on the lugs, and mechanical accuracy.
Rarity & demand
For informational purposes only, not a formal appraisal.
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