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Tissot Seastar Automatic Ref. 44520 (Gold-Plated, Silver Dial) c.1965

Vintage gold-plated Tissot Seastar Automatic watch with silver dial on a black braided strap. - view 1
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Estimated value

$175 - $350

Rarity

Ordinary(3/10)

Category

Watches

Brand

Tissot

Era

1960-1970

Origin

🇨🇭 Switzerland

Authenticity

Very High(85%)
28

TISSOT SEASTAR AUTOMATIC REF. 44520 (GOLD-PLATED, SILVER DIAL) C.1965: IDENTIFICATION

This mid-1960s dress watch features a gold-plated case with a sunburst silver dial and applied stick indices. The dial is signed with the applied 'T' logo above the Tissot name and 'Swiss'. It utilizes a center seconds hand and a non-magnified date window at 3 o'clock. The dial bears the 'T SWISS MADE T' designation at the 6 o'clock position, indicating the presence of tritium lume on the hands and index pips. The watch is currently fitted with a non-original black braided Perlon strap with a steel buckle.

Compare with other watches in the archive: Angus & Coote 'Faithful Lever' Pocket Watch (Elgin Movement) c.1915, Baume & Mercier Geneve Ladies Wristwatch c.1970s, Baume & Mercier Geneva Vintage Square Dress Watch c.1970.

CROSS-CULTURAL PARALLELS

Where This Object Echoes

Mid-Century Modernism1960s

The clean, functional aesthetics of the stick indices and silver sunburst dial reflect the minimalist design trends of the 1960s.

Ritual & Ceremonial Use

  • •Traditional 'coming of age' or graduation gift-giving in mid-20th century Europe and North America.

Meaning Through Time

1965

A reliable, high-end daily driver tool for the professional man.

2026

An entry-level vintage collectible valued for its mechanical heritage and 'shared' Omega DNA.

COLLECTOR NOTES

1

Tissot and Omega merged in 1930 to form SSIH, leading to several decades where both brands shared movement architecture and manufacturing resources.

2

The 'T' flanking 'Swiss Made' on the dial confirms the use of Tritium, which replaced the more radioactive Radium as a luminous material around 1963.

SCARCITY

Ordinary40-55%
CommonLegendary

Standard antiques commonly found at estate sales and flea markets. Plentiful supply meets modest demand.

Rarity 3/10. Curiosa currently catalogues 16 watches items at rarity 3 or higher.

Typical Characteristics

  • Moderate production runs
  • Common at estate sales
  • Entry-level collectibles

Confidence Factors

  • Correct dial printing and logo application for the era
  • Consistent aging and plating wear expected for a 1960s gold-plated Tissot
  • Generic screw-down caseback matches catalog specifications for Seastar models
How does authenticity detection work?

WATCHMAKER'S ASSESSMENT

Vintage Watchmaker & Horology Specialist

Horologist

Identification is high based on clear dial markings and case style, though the exact movement condition remains unverified without a caseback opening.

KEY EVIDENCE

  • 1Applied 'T' logo and font styles are correct for mid-60s production.
  • 2Tritium markers (T SWISS MADE T) align with post-1963 safety standards.
  • 3Case geometry suggests a 34-35mm diameter common for the Ref. 44520.
  • 4Braided Perlon strap is a typical 18mm aftermarket replacement from the 1970s or later.

UNCERTAINTIES

  • •Dial spotting suggests past moisture ingress; internal movement oxidation is likely.
  • •Non-original crown may indicate previous part replacement or service.

WHAT WOULD IMPROVE CERTAINTY

  • →Open the caseback to verify the caliber (likely 784-2) and check for rust on the rotor.
  • →Examine movement serial number to pinpoint the exact 1960s production year.
  • →Perform a timegrapher test to check the amplitude and beat error.

CONDITION & GRADE

Fair - Dial patinated/spotted, case plating worn, crystal requires replacement.

Grading breakdown

Visible moisture spots on the silver dial surface and significant loss of gold plating on the lugs reduce the grade; the hour hand shows darkening of the original tritium lume.

Condition

The dial shows significant spotting and oxidation, particularly between 12 and 1 o'clock and near the 6 o'clock marker. Case plating is worn through on high-friction areas, and the caseback shows tool marks from previous opening attempts.

WATCH MARKET VALUE

$175 - $350

Updated: May 10, 2026

Who buys this

Entry-level vintage watch collectors and fans of neo-vintage 'shared-DNA' watches.

What increases value

  • •Operational status of the automatic movement
  • •Rarity of the Seastar line compared to standard Tissot dress watches of the era

What lowers value

  • •High cost of dial restoration relative to the watch's total value
  • •Significant gold plating loss significantly reduces top-end collector interest

What makes top-tier examples

  • •Original signed crown and untouched dial
  • •Documentation of a recent service by a watchmaker

Grade & condition

Dial cleanliness, integrity of the gold plating on the lugs, and mechanical accuracy.

Rarity & demand

OrdinaryModerate demandSells quickly
Browse similar watches objects

For informational purposes only, not a formal appraisal.

FROM THE CABINET OF

RE

Rene

Fellow Collector•44 items

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