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Tavernier 18K Gold Manual Wind Ladies Watch c.1960s

Vintage Tavernier 18K gold ladies watch with mother-of-pearl dial and gold mesh bracelet, featuring Swiss 17-jewel manual movement. - view 1
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Estimated value

$450 - $750

Rarity

Uncommon(5/10)

Category

Watches

Brand

Tavernier

Era

circa 1960-1969

Origin

🇨🇭 Switzerland

Authenticity

Very High(88%)
32

TAVERNIER 18K GOLD MANUAL WIND LADIES WATCH C.1960S: IDENTIFICATION

A fine mid-century ladies' wristwatch by Tavernier featuring a solid 18-karat yellow gold circular case measuring approximately 18mm to 20mm in diameter. The dial utilizes a natural mother-of-pearl substrate with applied gold-tone baton indices and a printed '12' at the top. It is powered by a 17-jewel Swiss manual-wind movement protected by an Incabloc shock-absorption system. The case back bears clear Swiss hallmarks including the '18K 0.750' purity stamp and the Helvetia head assay mark. It is fitted with an integrated or period-correct gold-plated mesh Milanese-style bracelet.

Compare with other watches in the archive: Angus & Coote 'Faithful Lever' Pocket Watch (Elgin Movement) c.1915, Baume & Mercier Geneve Ladies Wristwatch c.1970s, Baume & Mercier Geneva Vintage Square Dress Watch c.1970.

PRODUCTION & REFERENCE HISTORY

Tavernier operated as a Swiss assembler during the mid-20th century, a period characterized by the proliferation of specialized workshops in the Jura region. During the 1960s, the Swiss watch industry utilized the Incabloc system, patented by Fritz Marti and Georges Braunschweig in 1928, as a ...
Tavernier operated as a Swiss assembler during the mid-20th century, a period characterized by the proliferation of specialized workshops in the Jura region. During the 1960s, the Swiss watch industry utilized the Incabloc system, patented by Fritz Marti and Georges Braunschweig in 1928, as a standard technical requirement to ensure movement durability against physical impact. The mother-of-pearl dial and petite gold case reflect the feminine design language dominant before the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s shifted market preferences toward larger, electronic timepieces.

SCARCITY

Uncommon70-80%
CommonLegendary

Genuine antiques with fewer examples on the market. Named makers, documented provenance, or early production examples.

Rarity 5/10. Curiosa currently catalogues 5 watches items at rarity 5 or higher.

Typical Characteristics

  • Limited production
  • Named makers
  • Growing collector demand

Confidence Factors

  • Hallmarks for 18K 0.750 are consistent with Swiss period-correct stamping
  • Incabloc branding on dial matches movement era technology
  • Mother-of-pearl dial shows genuine organic iridescence rather than synthetic coating
How does authenticity detection work?

WATCHMAKER'S ASSESSMENT

Vintage Watchmaker & Horology Specialist

Horologist

High confidence is based on the visibility of clear, era-appropriate Swiss hallmarks and the specific '17 Rubis Incabloc' dial configuration which aligns perfectly with 1960s Tavernier production.

KEY EVIDENCE

  • 1Swiss Helvetia 18K hallmark present on case back
  • 217 Rubis designation indicates a standard high-quality Swiss lever escapement
  • 3Incabloc shock protection suggests a post-1950s production date
  • 4Reference number 17051 visible on the case back exterior
  • 5Integrated mesh bracelet suggests a cocktail watch styling

UNCERTAINTIES

  • •Bracelet plating may hide base metal, unlike the solid gold case
  • •Absence of internal movement photos prevents verification of caliber cleanliness

WHAT WOULD IMPROVE CERTAINTY

  • →Request movement photos to identify the specific Ebauche caliber (e.g., ETA or Peseux)
  • →Use a Cape Cod cloth to test for gold-fill vs solid metal on the bracelet
  • →Perform a timing test on a timegrapher to check amplitude and beat error

CONDITION & GRADE

Good - Movement functional, case lightly worn, crystal requires polishing.

Grading breakdown

The dial remains well-preserved with no visible moisture damage or peeling of the mother-of-pearl layer. The case edges retain their original geometry despite signs of regular wear.

Condition

The crystal shows surface abrasions near the 9 o'clock position. The gold mesh bracelet exhibits slight twisting and wear to the plating on the high points of the weave. The case back hallmarks remain crisp and legible.

WATCH MARKET VALUE

$450 - $750

Updated: May 10, 2026

Who buys this

Vintage jewelry enthusiasts and collectors of mid-century Swiss 'boutique' brands looking for precious metal content.

What increases value

  • •Solid 18K gold case weight (scrap value floor)
  • •Mother-of-pearl dial preservation
  • •Legibility of Swiss hallmarks

What lowers value

  • •Mechanical service history status affects 'ready-to-wear' value
  • •Condition of the mesh bracelet which is difficult to repair if frayed
  • •Small 'cocktail' size limits broad market demand compared to unisex sizes

What makes top-tier examples

  • •Original box and papers present
  • •Solid 18K gold bracelet rather than plated
  • •Unpolished case preserving sharp lug facets

Grade & condition

Determined by dial clarity, accuracy of the manual wind movement, and case weight in grams.

Rarity & demand

UncommonModerate demandModerate liquidity
Browse similar watches objects

For informational purposes only, not a formal appraisal.

FROM THE CABINET OF

RE

Rene

Fellow Collector•44 items

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