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Tavernier 18K Gold Ladies Manual-Wind Wristwatch

Vintage Tavernier 18K solid gold ladies wristwatch with mother-of-pearl dial and mesh bracelet - view 1
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Estimated value

$600 - $1,200

Rarity

Average(4/10)

Category

Watches

Brand

Tavernier

Era

1960s

Origin

🇨🇭 Switzerland

Authenticity

Very High(90%)
19

INSIDE TAVERNIER 18K GOLD LADIES MANUAL-WIND WRISTWATCH

A refined mid-century ladies' dress watch by Tavernier, featuring a diminutive 18-karat solid yellow gold case. The dial configuration is striking, utilizing a stark white center offset by an iridescent mother-of-pearl chapter ring. Time is indicated via applied gold-tone baton indices and classic dauphine hands. The dial proudly designates '17 Rubis' and 'Incabloc', signaling a fully jeweled manual-wind mechanical movement fortified with shock protection—a key selling feature of the era. The caseback is a snap-fit design, clearly stamped with '18K 0.750' and bearing what appears to be the Swiss Helvetia hallmark, authenticating its precious metal content. It is fitted with a matching woven gold-tone Milanese mesh bracelet, which also appears to bear hallmarks on the end-tubes, suggesting it too may be manufactured from solid gold.

TIMEKEEPING ACROSS CULTURES

Where This Object Echoes

Mid-Century European1950s-1970s

The miniaturized, jewelry-first approach to horology mirrored the era's formal evening wear and cocktail hour aesthetics.

Ritual & Ceremonial Use

  • •Worn primarily during formal evening engagements or social gatherings, functioning more as a precious bracelet than a strictly utilitarian time-telling instrument.

Meaning Through Time

Mid-20th Century

Mechanical watches for women were feats of miniaturized engineering marketed heavily toward durability (Incabloc) paired with elegance.

Modern Era

Such pieces are now primarily traded for their intrinsic precious metal value and vintage aesthetic appeal rather than daily timekeeping utility.

A JOURNEY THROUGH TIME

Following widespread adoption of the wristlet during the early 20th century, post-war Swiss watchmaking saw a boom in 'cocktail' or dress watches for women. The 1950s and 1960s emphasized miniaturization and jewelry-like aesthetics. The prominent display of 'Incabloc' on the dial underscores an ...
Following widespread adoption of the wristlet during the early 20th century, post-war Swiss watchmaking saw a boom in 'cocktail' or dress watches for women. The 1950s and 1960s emphasized miniaturization and jewelry-like aesthetics. The prominent display of 'Incabloc' on the dial underscores an era when the shift from fragile balance staffs to shock-protected calibers was a major technological triumph that brands wanted to advertise directly to the consumer.

HOROLOGICAL SECRETS

1

The designation '17 Rubis' indicates a fully-jeweled manual movement where synthetic rubies act as low-friction bearings for all essential pivot points in the gear train.

2

The 'Incabloc' system, invented in the 1930s, uses a distinctive lyre-shaped spring to allow the delicate balance staff to shift laterally during an impact, preventing it from snapping.

HOW SCARCE IS IT?

Average55-70%
CommonLegendary

Typical antique shop fare. Requires some searching but regularly available. This is where most genuine antiques fall.

Typical Characteristics

  • Standard antique shop items
  • Regularly available
  • Moderate collector interest

Confidence Factors

  • Presence of deeply stamped, correct-era Swiss hallmarks (18K, 0.750) physically consistent with the period.
  • The aging profile of the dial, applied indices, and unpolished caseback is uniform and difficult to simulate.
  • Tavernier is a recognized but niche name, carrying very little incentive for outright forgery compared to marquee brands like Rolex or Omega.
How does authenticity detection work?

WATCHMAKER'S ASSESSMENT

Vintage Watchmaker & Horology Specialist

Horologist

The combination of clear hallmarks, highly legible dial printing, and an intact movement configuration yields high confidence in the identification and era. Only the physical verification of the bracelet's metal content limits absolute valuation certainty.

KEY EVIDENCE

  • 1Caseback bears the '18K' and '0.750' purity marks alongside what appears to be the Swiss Helvetia head.
  • 2Dial text explicitly notes '17 Rubis' and 'Incabloc', defining the movement's mechanical architecture.
  • 3Use of an applied mother-of-pearl outer chapter ring is highly characteristic of mid-century Swiss jewelry-watch production.

UNCERTAINTIES

  • •The exact precious metal content of the Milanese mesh bracelet requires loupe verification of the end-link stamps, which heavily dictates final market value.

WHAT WOULD IMPROVE CERTAINTY

  • →Examine the clasp and lug-ends of the mesh bracelet with a loupe to confirm matching 18k/750 hallmarks.
  • →Carefully open the snap-on caseback using a bench knife to photograph and identify the specific Swiss ebauche caliber inside.
  • →Test on a timegrapher to assess the amplitude and beat error of the 17-jewel movement.

CONDITION & GRADE

Condition

The watch presents in structurally sound, authentic condition. Minor surface scuffing is present on the polished caseback, precisely as expected for a soft 18k gold alloy of this vintage. The dial is remarkably well-preserved with no noticeable moisture ingress or radium/tritium burn, as it appears to be a non-luminous configuration.

Surface

The dial exhibits an iridescent mother-of-pearl outer track with a clean matte center. The 18k yellow gold snap-on caseback displays typical localized micro-abrasions and superficial scratches consistent with honest wear. The acrylic crystal appears clear with minimal visible distortion.

Weight & feel

While diminutive in its overall footprint, the piece will possess the distinct, concentrated heft characteristic of 18k solid gold casing, particularly if the mesh bracelet is also integrated solid gold.

WATCH MARKET VALUE

$600 - $1,200

Updated: Mar 9, 2026

  • Market comparables from auctions & retail
  • Condition, completeness & craftsmanship
  • Current collector demand & trends
  • Low = quick sale, high = patient seller

For informational purposes only, not a formal appraisal.

YOUR INPUT VS. SCANNER FINDINGS

How your provided context compares with Curiosa.com scanner findings.

What Aligned

  • User's identification of the brand 'Tavernier' is fully verified by the prominent dial printing.
  • User's classification of 'Original/Authentic' aligns with the period-correct hallmarks, dial layout, and uniform aging.
  • User's condition note of 'Minor wear' correctly describes the standard surface abrasions visible on the gold caseback.

FROM THE CABINET OF

RE

Rene

Fellow Collector•44 items

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