Late Victorian Peridot and Diamond Necklace and Brooch Suite c.1890

Authenticity
LATE VICTORIAN PERIDOT AND DIAMOND NECKLACE AND BROOCH SUITE C.1890: IDENTIFICATION
A fine late 19th-century jewelry suite consisting of a festoon-style necklace and a coordinating oval pendant-brooch. The necklace features five graduated step-cut peridots in cut-down collet settings, linked by foliate openwork sections likely silver-topped gold, pavé-set with approximately 3.0-4.0 carats of old-cut diamonds. The brooch features a central pear-shaped peridot of approximately 10-12 carats, suspended within a diamond-set floral wreath frame topped with a bow motif. The reverse reveals typical Victorian construction with gold backing and a C-clasp on the brooch.
Compare with other jewelry in the archive: Edwardian Peridot & Diamond Garland Brooch/Pendant c.1905, Victorian / Edwardian Era Floral Lapel Pin with Chain and Pendant, Art Deco Style Marcasite Sterling Silver Necklace.
CROSS-CULTURAL PARALLELS
Where This Object Echoes
Focus on color harmony and nature-inspired motifs like leaves and bows.
Ritual & Ceremonial Use
- •Often presented as evening wear 'Parures' for formal Victorian balls and high-society receptions.
Meaning Through Time
Known as the 'Gem of the Sun,' peridots were believed to protect the wearer from nightmares.
PERIOD & PROVENANCE
SCARCITY
Exceptional items that serious collectors actively seek. Only a handful appear at major auctions each year.
Rarity 7/10. Curiosa currently catalogues 1 jewelry item at rarity 7 or higher.
Typical Characteristics
- Few examples at auction yearly
- Specialist dealer networks
- Strong collector competition
Confidence Factors
- Construction techniques including cut-down collets and silver-topped gold are period-accurate.
- Presence of an authentic period handwriting tag suggests long-term provenance.
- Wear patterns on the gold reverse are consistent with 130+ years of age.
GEMOLOGIST'S ASSESSMENT
Jewelry Historian & Gemologist-Informed Appraiser
The visual evidence of the mounting style and the characteristic 'lily pad' inclusions in the peridots strongly support the 1890s attribution.
KEY EVIDENCE
- 1Cut-down collet settings for the graduated peridots.
- 2Silver-topped yellow gold construction (dual-metal technique).
- 3Old European and rose-cut diamond melee.
- 4Late Victorian C-clasp and extended pin assembly.
- 5Period handwriting on early 20th-century style jeweler's tag.
UNCERTAINTIES
- •Possible facet abrasion on the large peridot pear which may require professional polishing to maximize value.
WHAT WOULD IMPROVE CERTAINTY
- →Detailed Loupe inspection of the diamond cuts to confirm melle uniformity.
- →Acid test of the reverse gold gallery to confirm karat (likely 15k or 18k).
- →Check for maker's marks on the clasp tongue or necklace jump ring.
CONDITION & GRADE
Grading breakdown
Settings are secure with crisp detail; metal shows light patina but no visible structural thinning. Peridots maintain sharp facet junctions and high transparency.
Condition
Very good antique condition. Minor abrasion to the facets of the central pear-shaped peridot consistent with age. Clasp and safety pin are functional; one small diamond may be a later replacement based on differing scintillation.
GEMSTONE & METAL VALUE
Updated: May 11, 2026
Who buys this
Acquired primarily by collectors of fine Victorian jewelry and individuals seeking authentic 'something old' bridal suites.
What increases value
- •Intact suites (necklace and brooch) command a premium over individual pieces.
- •Large, clean pear-shaped peridots of high color saturation are increasingly scarce.
What lowers value
- •Damage to peridot facets, which are softer (6.5-7 Mohs) than diamonds or sapphires.
- •Missing diamonds or evidence of lead solder repairs on the reverse.
What makes top-tier examples
- •Original fitted presentation case.
- •Identifiable maker's marks from reputable houses such as Child & Child or Giuliano.
Grade & condition
Clarity and saturation of the green stones; total diamond weight; integrity of the silver-to-gold bonding.
Rarity & demand
For informational purposes only, not a formal appraisal.
SIMILAR CURIOSITIES
Edwardian Style Peridot and Diamond Festoon Necklace
Edwardian Peridot & Diamond Garland Brooch/Pendant c.1905
Sasanian Style Carnelian Swivel Intaglio Ring
Italian 750 Gold Omega-Style Chain Necklace
Art Deco Style Marcasite Sterling Silver Necklace
Tribal-Inspired Metal Pendant Necklace with Cabochon 'Stones'
ABOUT JEWELRY
Fine jewelry, costume pieces, rings, necklaces, bracelets, and brooches.
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