Angus & Coote 'Faithful Lever' Pocket Watch (Elgin Movement) c.1915

Estimated value
$150 - $350Rarity
Average(4/10)Category
WatchesBrand
ElginEra
Circa 1910–1920Origin
🇺🇸 United StatesAuthenticity
ANGUS & COOTE 'FAITHFUL LEVER' POCKET WATCH (ELGIN MOVEMENT) C.1915: IDENTIFICATION
A 16-size or 18-size hunter-cased pocket watch featuring a white enamel dial with Roman numerals. The dial is transitionally signed 'FAITHFUL LEVER / ANGUS & COOTE LTD / SYDNEY / 15 JEWELS' with 'MADE IN U.S.A.' at the 6 o'clock position. This indicates an American movement, likely manufactured by Elgin Watch Co., private-labeled for the Australian retailer Angus & Coote. The case is a silver-toned metal, possibly nickel or silver-filled, featuring a guilloché engine-turned pattern and a central unmonogrammed shield cartouche.
Compare with other watches in the archive: Baume & Mercier Geneve Ladies Wristwatch c.1970s, Baume & Mercier Geneva Vintage Square Dress Watch c.1970, Vintage Breitling Ladies Cocktail Watch in 18K Yellow Gold Ref. 5605.
CROSS-CULTURAL PARALLELS
Where This Object Echoes
Represents the Commonwealth's reliance on American industrial precision during the early 20th century.
Ritual & Ceremonial Use
- •The ritual of 'winding' the watch every morning to ensure a 30-40 hour power reserve.
- •Gift-giving for coming-of-age or retirement milestones in Australian business culture.
Meaning Through Time
A critical tool for punctuality and professional reliability.
An heirloom collectible valued for its mechanical history and genealogical connection.
PRODUCTION & REFERENCE HISTORY
SCARCITY
Typical antique shop fare. Requires some searching but regularly available. This is where most genuine antiques fall.
Rarity 4/10. Curiosa currently catalogues 11 watches items at rarity 4 or higher.
Typical Characteristics
- Standard antique shop items
- Regularly available
- Moderate collector interest
Confidence Factors
- Correct dial typography for 1910-era Angus & Coote imports
- Period-appropriate wear on the crown and bow
- Consistent case design with known American export models
WATCHMAKER'S ASSESSMENT
Vintage Watchmaker & Horology Specialist
Identification is high due to clear dial markings and well-documented trade history between Elgin and Angus & Coote; however, internal movement condition is unknown.
KEY EVIDENCE
- 1Dial signature 'Faithful Lever' is a documented Angus & Coote private label.
- 2Roman numeral font and spade hands are consistent with 1915-era American manufacture.
- 3The crown is a typical 'Art Nouveau' style fluted onion crown.
- 4Sub-seconds track at 6 o'clock indicates a standard Lépine or Hunter movement layout.
UNCERTAINTIES
- •Hairline crack in the enamel dial significantly impacts value to top-tier collectors.
- •Possible mismatch in metal between the bow and the crown suggests a historical repair.
WHAT WOULD IMPROVE CERTAINTY
- →Open the inner dust cover (cuvette) to photograph the serial number on the movement.
- →Check for hallmarks on the inside of the case back to confirm if it is solid silver or nickel.
- →Observe if the balance wheel oscillates freely when the watch is gently rotated.
CONDITION & GRADE
Grading breakdown
The primary detractor is the dial fracture, which is common in enamel from this era. The case retains good pattern depth but shows significant thinning of the silver/nickel plating at the edges.
Condition
Visible hairline crack on the enamel dial between the sub-seconds and the 5 hour marker. The brassing on the winding crown suggests the top layer of gold-fill has worn through to the base metal. Case hinge appears intact but the outer lid shows surface oxidation.
WATCH MARKET VALUE
Updated: May 11, 2026
Who buys this
Australian horology enthusiasts and collectors of American railroad-era export watches.
What increases value
- •Angus & Coote branding provides regional desirability in the Australian market
- •15-jewel movement indicates a higher quality than standard 7-jewel utility watches
What lowers value
- •Dial cracks are permanent and can only be 'filled' but not truly repaired
- •Unknown movement condition; a broken balance staff would cost $150+ to repair
What makes top-tier examples
- •Pristine enamel dial with zero hairlines
- •Original matching box with Angus & Coote Sydney jeweler label
Grade & condition
Condition of the enamel dial, presence of original hands, and the functional state of the movement.
Rarity & demand
For informational purposes only, not a formal appraisal.
SIMILAR CURIOSITIES
Swiss Triple Calendar Skeletonized Pocket Watch
Universa 2000 Sterling Silver Fashion Watch c.1970s
Tavernier 18K Gold Manual Wind Ladies Watch c.1960s
Vintage Breitling Ladies Cocktail Watch in 18K Yellow Gold Ref. 5605
Victorian Heart-Shaped Pendent Watch c.1890
Vintage Longines Rectangular Tank Watch and 1977 Silver Jubilee Crown
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